"My bird IS the word" (mybirdistheword)
11/03/2019 at 20:52 • Filed to: None
3
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"My bird IS the word" (mybirdistheword)
11/03/2019 at 20:52 • Filed to: None | 3
| 8 |
So I had to have done something wrong, this is not just material fatigue
The eyelet bent, and was ripped off. The bolt that went through the linkage got a sick bend to it as well. I’m not really sure what went wrong here, as i didnt take the thing apart ( a friend did) so im not really sure how it goes together. Anybody familiar with the shift linkage on the th350?
Edit: this took me way longer to find than it should have.
!!! UNKNOWN CONTENT TYPE !!!
Im like 90% sure I lost this. Goddamnit.
The replacement cable is also noticeably beefier, so...
It turns out a vacuum leak was to blame for my idling issues. The car has this stange line that goes off the back of the carb to the air cleaner, and to a vacuum diaphragm on the choke. That isn’t hooked up when I run the engine with the air cleaner off. That tiny port being open is apparantly enough to screw eveything up. Capped that off and everything runs just fine. Now testing with the ol harbor freight vaccuum gauge shows everything A-ok once it gets some a tiny bit of heat in it. New proper calibrated temperature sender from lectric limited is also functioning.
Car is also all purdy again. Time for some hasty glamour shots! Ill get some better ones when the car is back on the road.
GLiddy
> My bird IS the word
11/03/2019 at 21:33 |
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It got damaged because the car sits too low. When the transmission is in L (most likely) , the plate on the transmission that the cable clips into extends below the bottom of the transmission pan. When this happens while going over a speedbump or something tall in the road, it creates a bind when the plate strikes the object but the shifter is essentially locked in gear, so something has to give and stuff bends or breaks. If your ignition interlock still functions, you can still change gears by rotating the collar on the steering wheel to change gears just as if you had a column shift. I found the best way to adjust and synchronize the whole thing was to take the cable loose, and then get the ignition interlock mechanism set (there is a set bolt that you tighten against the rod coming down from the steering column) where you can change gears using the collar as above and then install the cable.
Its been many years since doing this, but that’s what I recall.
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GLiddy
> GLiddy
11/03/2019 at 21:50 |
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Found this. Perhaps it helps.
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My bird IS the word
> GLiddy
11/03/2019 at 22:17 |
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This was not from driving though. This happened immediatly after reinstalling the transmission and checking to make sure everything engaged properly. . I was just sitting and running the console shifter and checking adjustment and it snapped clean off.
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GLiddy
> My bird IS the word
11/03/2019 at 22:36 |
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That’s a conundrum then. You shouldn’t need that much force.
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My bird IS the word
> GLiddy
11/03/2019 at 23:05 |
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http://www.jegs.com/i/Auto-Metal-Direct/106/W-682/10002/-1
Figured it out. This stupid thing is 12$.
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GLiddy
> My bird IS the word
11/04/2019 at 00:59 |
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That looks familiar. Hope it works for you. I dealt with shift cable and shifter issues quite a lot. I went through 2 transmissions and the adjustment was always a bit off when it came home from the transmission shop, and it didn’t help that I decided at one point to put one of these in my car, which necessitated relocating the shift cable. If you ever want to install this, you have to cut a new hole in the floor. Not recommended, but that reminds me that I should sell my old one. Now, the B&M stage 1 shift kit was a nice upgrade. It gave me tire chirping 1-2 shifts and nice firm 2-3 shifts. I love your car. Mine was the same color from what I can tell from your pics. I thought it was the prettiest color offered. Mine had gold special edition style pin stripes.
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My bird IS the word
> GLiddy
11/04/2019 at 06:47 |
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I think the aftermarket pin stripes look great, its great that they offer them. What year was your car?
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GLiddy
> My bird IS the word
11/04/2019 at 15:56 |
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1979 403 built in the Norwood Ohio plant. It had the ratcheting shifter but something got messed up in it when some guy hit me head-on at an intersection. That’s when I put the B&M shifter in.
Things I did to mine.
Catalytic converter delete “test pipe”. B&M ratcheting shifter. B&M Stage 1 shift kit. HO Racing Specialties carburetor kit. Herb Adams VSE Stage 1 suspension kit with relocated spring shackles and trunk mounted battery. Of course I had an Alpine sound system, but I didn’t really go crazy with that. It just sounded clean.
When I sold it for $800, I put the catalytic converter back in, the factory shifter and the original radio. I still feel bad for letting it go, but it was deteriorating while it sat unused and I had a job and lived in another state. I had removed a lot of the interior which was badly sun weathered, so the guy who got it had a lot of work to do. I had started fixing it and had installed a new carpet, but then the new job made me abandon it.